Oriental, NC to Fort Monroe, VA

Monday, May 16
After doing a couple of loads of laundry we headed across the inlet to Deaton’s .  It was about 9:30.  By 1 pm the macerator pump had been replaced.  We were impressed with the service.  The staff was friendly and they matched the work with the appropriate technician, so we ended up paying a reasonable hourly charge.  Replacing a pump doesn't require a licensed mechanic at $95 per hour.  The technician charged out at $66 and it took just a bit more than one hour so we were happy with the entire experience.

While the repairs were underway Rusty took Gigi to the local vet to have a small lump over her forehead checked out.  The vet surmised that is was protein from the remains of a tick we pulled out a few weeks ago.

We purchased West Marine go-anywhere chairs for the helm seating.  We'll see if it will be easier on our backs.

About 1:30 we cruised for about 90 minutes to an anchorage on Adams Creek.  Another boat "Anywhere" joined us.  They are from Texas and have a relaxed laissez-faire approach to cruising.  Where we take one day to get from point A to B, they take one week exploring the nooks and crannies along the way.  We could learn something from them, I think.

Tuesday, May 17

We travelled a little more than six hours on some long stretches of open water.  The water got choppy in the afternoon and we were happy to see Belhaven, NC, at least until we got inside the inlet.  There was a single sailboat anchored and it was bopping up and down like a yo-yo.  Not for us.  The piers at the local marina looked decrepit and so we high-tailed it out and around the corner to Pungo Creek.  It turned out to be a wonderful place to anchor. 

Wednesday, May 18

It was an easy and pleasant run to the Little Alligator River where we anchored.  Tomorrow we would cross the Albemarle Sound and wanted to do it first thing in the morning when the weather tended to be calmer.  Four other boats joined us at the anchorage.  It turned out that all four boats were single-handed and one of them was a Monk36.

Thursday, May 19

We pulled up the anchor at 6:30 am, and spent the next six hours dodging crab pots in 10 mph winds in the Albemarle Sound.  It was impossible to turn on the autopilot.  We arrived at Elizabeth City, NC and were given a place on the bulkhead at their city docks.  Elizabeth City is known for its hospitality to boaters, providing 48 hr. free dockage, a wine and cheese reception, and a rose for each of the ladies.

Friday, May 20

Rusty had a yen for pancakes and off he went early morning to find some at a local restaurant, giving me a chance to sleep in.  Glorious.   Rusty then did some maintenance on the boat and I went to the Albemarle Museum.  Great place to get a sense of the history of the area.  It was well put together and the exhibits are in great condition.

Saturday, May 21

We were going to stay for the local potato festival but began to feel antsy so we headed up the Great Dismal Swamp Canal.  It was beautiful.  We stopped at the Welcome Center, another free dockage.  There is a state park with trails.  It is worth staying an extra day to relax and take it all in. 

Sunday, May 22

It was a day of waiting.  We missed the Dismal Swamp Lock by 15 min. and had to wait for 1.75 hr. for the next opening.  We spent it having a nice lunch.  and doing shore duties with Gigi.  Then as we approached Norfolk, VA, one of the railroad bridges was down for maintenance and it took almost 2 hr.  before we could get through.   When we pulled up the anchor we noticed the roller had broken.   After docking at Waterside Marina, we enjoyed spending some time with Rusty’s cousins who live in Norfolk.

Monday, May 23

We moved over to Ocean Marine Yacht Center, Portsmouth, VA, across the river from Waterside.  Very friendly folks.  Portsmouth is a jewel and we will have to return.  We discovered two free dockage areas at the ferry landings so that will be something to note for our return visit.  Our anchor roller will be repaired tomorrow.  There is a NY style deli within walking distance of the marina.

Tuesday, May 24

The anchor roller was fixed while we had a breakfast of bagels, lox and cream cheese.  Yummy bagels.  The repair cost $137 and truthfully it was not a particular good job.  It is still bent and there is too much play in the bottom roller. 

We left late morning and headed towards Fort Monroe, about 1.5 hours away.  The trip was interesting as it was the first time we were in some heavy duty commercial channels.  Traffic was light and we kept out of the way.

Fort Monroe is an Army post with an interesting history and museum located on the island.  We had been told about a good anchorage outside the marina at the Fort.  No one else was there and as we made arrangements to anchor there, we decided instead to dock at the marina.

I shudder to think what would have happened if we had not made that decision.

After settling in, we left Gigi on board and walked over to the museum, spending about an hour looking at the exhibits and getting a better idea of the history of the Fort.  One interesting fact is that during the civil war, three runaway slaves were captured and the Union general would not release them to their owners declaring them to be “contraband of war”, and then giving them their freedom.  Word got out and many more slaves found their way to Fort Monroe with the same end result.

As we exited the museum, we noticed dark looking clouds.   We split up with Rusty getting some stuff done on base and I headed back to the boat.  The wind picked up and just as I got to the end of the dock, it started to pour and I noticed some of our canvas was whipping about. Gigi was relieved to see me and we spend the next 30 min.  holding each other while the winds got stronger.  The water was pouring over the break wall and it was dark outside although it was only 4 pm.

During a lull I managed to put two more lines on the bow and stern and to close up the fly bridge enclosure, and fasten the extra line from the mast to the fly bridge. Then the winds came again just howling away.

Rusty in the meantime had found his way to shelter and was given a ride back to the boat when the storm passed.   I think he felt badly that he wasn’t there. 

Our boat came through with no damage.  As we were assessing things, a sailboat limped in with the assistance of the coast guard.  It had lost its engine, bimini, and jib sail.   We learned later that some boats in the area had capsized. 

The storm came up so quickly.  We would have had serious damage to the boat and ourselves if we had anchored out.  

About 11 pm we woke up to the sounds of another storm passing and were so grateful that we were safe and secure.

I can’t say I respect Mother Nature anymore.  After today, I fear her. 

Camp Lejeune, NC to Oriental, NC

Thursday, May 12
It was such a big help being after to stay an extra day at Camp Lejeune yesterday.The weather forecast had not been favorable to move on but we were out of excuses today and so we motored out of the marina.  On the way we were treated to osprey (vertical takeoff),  blackhawks, gunships, hovercraft, landing craft (amtracks), CH-53 helicopters, fighter jets, and aircraft carrier.

We had an invitation to use a dock in Swansboro owned by a couple who are looking for a Monk36.  They found out about us from either reading a forum or blog and emailed us with the invitation.  It was great to meet them later that afternoon.  They are hoping to have a liveaboard cruising lifestyle taking things and places as they come along.

Friday, May 13
An early morning departure to Beaufort, NC was uneventful.  We arrived about noon and found an anchorage in Taylor Creek and took the dinghy into town.  There is an historic area and along the shore is Front Street, with the usual tourist shops and some restaurants.  The cemetery is noteworthy, spooky, and old.  One of the tombs contains a soldier buried standing up so that he can salute the king.  We never did find it but I'm sure it's there if the literature says it is.

The Taylor Creek has a strong tide that turns the boats around every six hours or so.  We seemed to be in sync with the other boats even though we were anchored and the ones around us were on a mooring ball.

The wind picked up a bit later in the evening.

About 3 am I heard swishing of water in the tanks and then a soft plunk. "Rusty" I screamed.  "Something has happened."  We ran outside and found the nose of the next sailboat  (unoccupied) gently nudging the back of our boat. Our boat had swung over the sailboats anchor line and was stuck.  We were concerned that the anchor might be lodged around our prop so we did not dare try and motor away.  Visions of our prop and running gear being torn from the bottom of our boat were unsettling.  We put fenders in between our boats, called SeaTow, and prayed that the tide would not change course until we were free.

Our fender is the black thing at the bottom of the photo and the rest is the bow and anchor or the sailboat.

The SeaTow captain had seen our situation many times and calmly tied up to our boat.  He very slowly pulled us away from the sailboat and within seconds we were freed.  Rusty fortunately had placed fenders along our exposed side and was there to fend us away from the bow of the sailboat we turned away from it.  Otherwise we would have some serious gouges in our hull.

Sea Tow held on to us until we could pull up our anchor.  The anchor had held throughout and we surmise that we had laid out too much chain.  When the winds were light we swung tight but with the increased winds in the late evening and early morning our swing was too wide.

By the time the drama was over, it was 5 am, Rusty made some coffee, and swe said a prayer of thanks.  There was no damage to either boat.  The sailboat anchor chain had wedged at the dinghy and swim platform. If we had more chain let out, the bow of the sailboat with its pointing anchor would have done some serious damage to our boat.

Saturday, May 14
We looked at another anchorage in Beaufort as we really wanted to visit the Maratime Museum but it too was crowded.  We toyed with the idea of staying at a marina but it would have meant backtracking.  We were, for the moment, spent with Beaufort.

By noon we were nearing Oriental, NC and were hoping to spend a couple days there on the free city docks.  We found out that there were only two docks and they were occupied, so we headed under a 45' bridge to Greens Creek and dropped our anchor.

A walk around town in the afternoon preceded our dinner of gumbo and andouille sausage on the boat.  The water got choppy and we thought, "not another night last last".  We laid down more chain but this time we had no worries as we were the only boat around.   Rusty and I decided we needed to have a strategy for when to seek a marina.  Such as, "when the wind is above 15 MPH, or when there is lengthy thunderstorms."

Sunday, May 15
Rusty and I both woke up a few time that night to check our position.  We were fine.

At about 8 am we found out there was a major weather disturbance headed our way and we made arrangements to dock at the Whittaker Pointe Marina.  By the time we got there and settled in blue skies could be seen.  Nevertheless the winds are steady at 10 MPH and we are bouncing.  The marina has a courtesy car and great facilities so it is pleasant to be here.  We are having some work done at Deatons Yacht Service tomorrow and they are around the corner.

Beaufort, SC to Camp Lejeune, NC

Monday, April 24
We had moved from Beaufort, SC the day before to a lovely anchorage at MM 509.  3rd day without any repairs.  Is this what cruising is supposed to be all about?

We purchased fuel south  (MM 473) of Charleston, SC:  181 gallons.  We are averaging 1.82 gallons per hour, including periodic use of the generator.  Our average speed is 7.5 miles per hour, so that translates to 4.12 miles per gallon. 

Rusty contacted the Coast Guard to report a log sitting in the middle of the channel.  We provided the coordinates and they later announced it as a warning to mariners.

We anchored out at MM 455.  It was a bit tight and we worried about swinging and hitting shore when the tide changed.  Fortunately Gigi kept Rusty up and he was able to do anchor watch.

Tuesday, April 25
We were ready to spend a night at a marina for a number of reasons.  The weather started to turn and it was the first time we travelled while it was raining.  We stayed up on the flybridge, zipped up the windows and it was just fine.  After a few hours the winds picked up and the water got choppy so we phoned ahead to the Harborwalk Marina for space.

Georgetown, SC is one of those towns where I thought we were going to retire.  It actually has a functioning main street with stores that are useful for everyday living.  A steel factory, salt plant, and paper mill provide the economic base for the town.  Historically rice was the main crop and there is an informative rice museum in town.

Two other Monk36 (Punches and Prime Time) docked at the same Marina.

Wednesday, April 26
Gigi had her best grooming at a local pet store in Georgetown, at 2/3 of the Naples price.  While she was being groomed, Rusty and I visited the rice museum and had lunch at Thomas Cafe, where all the locals go. Rusty had shrimp and grits and they were excellent, as was my fried shrimp.  The weather was not getting better so we stayed another night, relaxing in the afternoon and taking leisurely walks when the weather permitted.

Thursday, April 27
Weather was still not letting up so we stayed for a third night.  Georgetown is so delightful that it was not a tough decision.  We found a place for Gigi to board when we are in Canada next week.

Friday, April 29
We did a long day today - 60 miles - and anchored outside Calabash, NC MM342.  Calabash is a small fishing community that now has a thriving boat/fishing charter industry.  That evening a few local boaters approached our boat and we exchanged pleasantries and found out information on visiting the town.

Saturday, April 30
We took the dinghy and went into town about 7 am.  We couldn't believe our eyes.  There was a deli serving breakfast and they had a side courtyard where we could bring Gigi.  Although the food was just average it was a nice change from eating onboard.

Another long day. We motored past Southport but will try and visit next time. It was the first time we encountered some large vessels putting out some serious wake.  We got as far to the right of the channel as we could.  Even so, it was rocky when they passed.

Wrightsville (MM 283)  has an anchorage and free dinghy dock within a few hundred feet of each other. Nice set up.  Rusty reserved a NY Times for Sunday.  Wrightsville is a beach community that has yet to see a revival.  The beach is within walking distance of the dinghy dock so for beach lovers, it is a nice stop.

Sunday, May 1
A pleasant run to MM244 Mile Hammock Bay, part of the restricted area at Camp Lejeune.  The anchorage is open to anyone but there are no landing privileges for non-military folks. 

Monday, May 2
The harbor host for Swansboro had made arrangements for us to dock at Gottshalk Marina located on Camp Lejeune, the Marine military base.  Tom met us and helped with the docking even getting other boaters to give us a hand.  Rusty had to back into a finger pier and that was a first.  He did it like a pro.  Rusty got a replacement military ID.  I did laundry at the complimentary laundramat at the marina.  We went out to dinner with Tom and his wife Melesia  to a Mongolian stir-fry.  Excellent!

The marina setting is beautiful and peaceful except for the odd mortar and artillery firing.

Tuesday, May 3
Today was spent cleaning up the boat and getting ready for our trip to Canada. We rented a car from Enterprise on base.  In retrospect we should have gone with another company but it was the easiest and only game in town.  No unlimited miles if travelling outside the Carolina's.  Throughout the trip it has been difficult to get things arranged for our departure to Canada.  We did not know where we would be when the time came so booking flights was out of the question.  Internet access has been spotty so doing the usual exhaustive research was also out of the question.  Nevertheless the final plans did come together and we were grateful to be able to breathe before we head to Canada.

Wednesday, May 4 - Wednesday, May 11
Trip to Canada for son Jason's and daughter-in-law Shayna's wedding.  Absolutely beautiful ceremony.  So happy for both of them.

Good to get "home" and visit with family.  I miss them.

We made the decision to attend the Monk36 Rendezvous to be held in Deltaville, VA June 7-9.  We plan to head to Washington DC at a leisurely pace and then head back to Deltaville.

Cumberland Island, Georgia to Beaufort, SC

Monday, April 17

In the morning we took an extended walk on the trails on Cumberland Island and saw the remains of a grand lifestyle of the late 1800's and early 1900's.  Some of the buildings were in ruins, while some of them continued to be occupied by the descendents of the original owners. 

Rusty called the repair shop throughout the morning.  It was a little disconcerting when the receptionist didn't know anything about the motor, Eric was not to be found, and the only repair person qualified to do the repairs also did not know about it. But she sure was going to find out for us.  A few calls later and it came out that Eric was out of town.  Hmmn.  Early afternoon Eric returned our calls and said the motor would be done in a couple of hours and he would call us.  Hurray.

We packed up and headed back to Fernandino Beach about one hour away.  We called at about the two hour mark (per Eric) and there was no answer.  We called again and again and still no answer.  If we knew that the dinghy motor would be delivered before dark, we could moor or anchor out.  Otherwise we needed to dock.  Finally we resigned ourselves to spending the bucks to dock.

Eric delivered the motor about 7:30 that evening.  His bill - $318 and no charge for the excellent customer service.  His only qualified mechanic handles both large and small motors so we paid $90 per hour to have an overqualified person pour oil through the transmission until it was clear.

Lesson learned:  Don't leave the dinghy motor on the dinghy.

Rusty added one quart of anti-freeze to the engine cooling system  More to follow on this one.

Tuesday, April 19
We had arranged to travel with two sailboats from Canada today and make an outside run in the Atlantic Ocean.  It started out fine but the water got increasingly bouncy in the afternoon.  We stayed with the sailboats (Ootpik and El Solaz)  until noon and then found ourselves gaining on them.  They were unsure whether they were going to stay out overnight and we definitely wanted to seek calmer waters. 

We found a secure anchorage (MM630) that night in spite of the 9 ft. tide change.  We noticed that the inverter interface indicated that the house batteries were low.  The batteries should have charged while we cruised.  We ran the generator and found that the batteries began to charge up.

Gigi peed in her box for the first time.This is a major step forward.

Rusty added some distilled water to the engine cooling system. 

Wednesday, April 20
Rusty took a look under the engine and discovered leaking antifreeze.  What a disappointment. It was a dark day: malfunctioning batteries and a leaking engine cooling system.  After the fiasco with the dinghy motor we shuddered at what we might be looking at.  Early afternoon it looked like it might rain so we decided to dock at the Isle of Hope Marina., MM590. The marina has courtesy cars and bikes, free wifi, and a knowledgeable dockmaster.  They were running a promotion offering the 2nd night at 50% and as it turned out we needed it.

Thursday, April 21
The dockmaster and a young man showed up at the boat mid-day to assess the battery problem.  Under the guidance of the dockmaster the young man performed a few tests with a voltmeter and it was determined that the alternator was faulty and needed to be repaired at an electrical shop.  The young man would take care of it.

We took advantage of the courtesy car to do some grocery shopping and get some take-out at a  recommended BBQ place in town.

In the meantime we waited for another mechanic to look at the engine cooling system.  We had received some feedback from other Monk36 owners via the forum and contacted a Perkins 135 engine supplier for advice.  One of the AGLCA harbor hosts offered the use of his dock should we need it and made some calls to mechanics he knew.   The deal is that the mani-cooler cannot be repaired but a refit kit can be purchased for $3,500 and a good mechanic can installed it within a day.

Okay.  Can the days get darker?

Friday, April 22
The young man reinstalled the alternator mid-morning and then presented us with a bill for $567, 4 hours labor at $95, plus outside repair of $175.  Gulp.  He explained that  two of those hours were for delivery and pickup of the alternator at the repair shop.  Short version of what happened next is that he knocked one hour off the bill.  Even so, it was over the top.  The marina has a set charge of $95 per hour for labor regardless of the qualifications or expertise.

A few minutes later the mechanic for the engine cooling system approached the boat.  With my hand on my hip I asked him what and how he charged for his time.  He was a bit taken back but when we explained what had just happened, he nodded and said,  "Yup, that's our boy".

He did a pressure test of the system and found it to be ok.  Then he traced the source of the leak to the old section of the overflow hose at the radiator cap (the mechanic who installed the overflow tank had spliced the old hose to the new hose.)  What should have happened is for a completely new hose to go from overflow tank. It required an adapter as the two ends of the hose fit into different size holes.   He did not have an adapter on him so he replaced the old section of hose and super glued the two section of hoses together.  It worked.  He was on the boat for less than an hour.  $50.   An honest, fair, and knowledgeable mechanic.

To say that we were relieved is an understatement.

We headed out and anchored at MM 570.  Bach piano concerto.  Manhattans & Brunswick Stew.  Dinghy ramp available at an abandoned looking marina for Gigi.

Saturday, April 23
It was a short day on the water.  We docked at Beaufort, SC, another marina with a courtesy car.  Beaufort has beautiful old homes, and a wonderful waterfront park.  We took a walk and found a church to attend for Easter.

Sunday, April 24
A beautiful Easter service at the 1719 Episcopal church this morning.  The church was decorated with an abundance of flowers. Music was great.  Priest spoke on the proof of the resurrection, citing various facts.  It was well thought out and presented, and could have rivalled any Christian Reformed sermon.

 

We treated ourselves to bagels and the NY Times.  Off we went early afternoon to an anchorage MM509, ducking in between the crab pots and shore.