Sunday, June 26
It was lovely cruising up the Hudson River. We made it as far as Kingson, NY and anchored out nearby on the side of a channel. Today we made the decision not to travel to travel up Lake Champlain. We are running out of time and decided to save that area plus Quebec and the Rideau for the following summer.
Monday, June 27 – Tuesday, June 28
We completed the Hudson River and made a left to start the Erie Canal. Waterford, NY was at the intersection of the two waterways. We reprovisioned at a great grocery store, did laundry, stepped the mast, and got ourselves ready to start the Erie Canal and locks. We met a couple from Holland who were doing some extended cruising on a sailboat they had sailed from Holland. Being a bit homesick for Dutch food, they appreciated getting a few packages of Dutch soap and Indonesian nasi goreng from our pantry.
Wednesday, June 29
We were ready to get moving after our two day rest. There were 9 locks today and it was tough going. Because the water levels were high there was a lot of water going over the dams and it was turbulent as we would enter the locks. Rusty did a great job of piloting in spite of the difficult conditions. Our boat has a high freeboard. Our fenders are sized correctly for our boat but not for the locks. When the fenders are placed correctly to protect the boat while going up the lock walls, they are too high when we come to the top of the lock and then we have to scramble to lower the fenders and hold onto the lines at the same time. There was significant water movement in the locks and it felt as if my arms were at least a couple inches longer at the end of the day.
We stopped at Amsterdam, NY along with Gemini and Sea Flats with whom we travelled all day. If there is anything left of the Dutch influence in Amsterdam, it was not to be found.
Thursday, June 30
Another rough day with tough locks. Docked at Herkimer where we experienced the worst wake from another boat passing by. We almost lost our wooden rails.
Friday, July lst
It was a short day today and it turned out wonderfully. We docked at Rome, NY in time for a great lunch at the Savoy, followed by a tour of Fort Stanwix, and the purchase of Italian deli meat. After all, we were in Rome!
Saturday, July 2nd
We said goodbye to Gemini this morning and later we left Sea Flats in Brewerton, NY, on our way to our night’s destination in Phoenix, NY. Teens in this town help out the boaters for tips. Unfortunately by the time we arrived, no one was there and the town was virtually shut down. So at three o’clock in the afternoon we had an ice cream cone, toured a former church building turned into a museum, and purchased Tito’s vodka at the one building still open at 5 pm.
Sunday, July 3rd – Monday, July 4th
Early Sunday we headed to Oswego, NY and tied to the town dock between Lock 7 & 8. We spent Monday doing maintenance on the boat. It looked like the weather would be good for a crossing on Tuesday.
Tuesday, July 5th
The Lake Ontario crossing was bad. We expected winds of 10 MPH out of the south west but they were coming at us from the north west, right on our beam. It was brutal. Rusty had to keep altering course so that we would not be rocked, and then making a correction, so it was a tack to the left, then a tack to the right. We skirted in north of Amherst Island and got some relief but it meant we would not be going to Kingston that night. We did a telephone customs/immigration interview at Collins Bay Marina and stayed there for a couple of nights.
Wednesday, July 6th
Joanna, Pascal, and our grandchildren drove from Montreal and we had a really nice visit with them. There was a park next to the marina and the setting was perfect for relaxing and enjoying each others company.
Thursday, July 7th
It was a pleasant cruise to Picton, Ontario. This is the Canadian version of a town that I imagined would be the perfect retirement place. The main street had everything you could want. Everything was in walking distance. The town was well maintained. We got a mooring ball at the yacht club and it worked out well.
Friday, July 8th
We made it to Trenton, the entrance to the Trent-Severn Waterway. Lo and behold, as we docked at the Trenton Marina, who would be there waiting to help us with our lines but Gemini and Sea Flats. The main street was next to the marina and there was promise of a farmers market near the bridge the next morning. Two blocks away was a Dutch food store and my droop fix was satisfied.
In the early evening, Rusty struck up a conversation with a local couple and found out the man was born in Friesland. We chatted for a while about things including Dutch food and I happened to mention that I especially like Frisian clove cheese but it was not available in the Dutch store. About one hour later there was a knock on the boat door and the Dutch gent handed me a package of Frisian clove cheese.
Saturday, July 9th - Sunday, July 10th
It was a long day today from Trenton to Campbellford, Ontario. We should have broken it up. We were so exhausted by the end of the day we literally collapsed for two days.
Monday, July 11th
Only 20 miles today and we made it to Hastings, Ontario. There is a good fish and chips restaurant there (Captain’s Table) and that is about it.
Tuesday, July 12th - Wednesday, July 13
We spent two nights in Peterborough at the city docks. It was convenient to the downtown area and there was a nice waterfront park. Next to the marina was a local art gallery with an exhibition of work by local artists for their upcoming studio tour. The work was excellent. Different styles and the quality was breathtaking.
We were treated to a concert on Wednesday evening by the Central Band of the Canadian Armed Forces. Earlier that day we found a mid-week farmers market where we stocked up on lamb meat pieces and Russian pierogies. They were yummy. We also picked up the chartbook for Georgian Bay & the North Channel. While the guidebooks are helpful and we have a great chartplotter, we are finding that it makes life much easier if we also have the appropriately sized paper charts.
Thursday, July 14
Long, long day. We left Peterborough at 8:15am and found an anchorage at 7:45 pm in the Blind Channel near Gannon Narrows. It was hard to find a spot to anchor with the weedy bottom but finally the anchor held. A steak and salad dinner was our reward.
Friday, July 15 - Saturday, July 16
An early start brought us to the Bobcaygeon lock. It was a narrow entrance and the lockmaster did not see us so we had to tie up on the wall and wait for them. Well, tying up is not an easy thing sometimes. Our front end came in fine but we lost the back end. Fortunately some folks on shore came over to help. We really did not want to move for a while so we hit the local butcher store, found out the story on getting through the lock, and had a latte.
Shortly after noon we were on our way again, arriving in Fenelon Falls, a few hours later. The lock walls at Fenelon Falls are popular because some of them have electricity and water. As we entered the lock, the staff told us there was no room which meant either an anchorage or a marina some distance from town. As we pulled out of the lock we spotted an opening and with the help of the two boat owners on either side, we had our spot for the night. Apparently just as the lock was opened, the folks in our spot took off. What luck!
We spent two nights there which was perfect. James, Jen, and grandaughter Courtney came to visit on Saturday, and later that evening sister Jackie and family also joined us. All of them had been enjoying a week at cottages nearby. Family is a good thing.
Sunday, July 17
We stopped off at Coboconk for a couple of hours. As we approached the end of the waterway, our water depth blanked out. A very nice gentlemen on shore said there was lots of water and encouraged us to tie-up at the city docks ("They're free. You're in Canada" he yelled). He came over and offered his own dock with electricity and hot showers if we wanted to stay the night. We felt we needed to move on and spent the night on the wall at Kirkfield. We tied up behind God's Speed from Louisiana, a lovely boat from Louisiana. There was a severe thunderstorm that night and we were glad to be securely tied up.
Monday, July 18
It was a bit of toss what we should do today. The weather predictions indicated that it was not a good day to cross Lake Simcoe. On the other hand we had a few more locks before we needed to make that decision. So on we trotted but not before God's Speed's captain gave Rusty explanations of diesel mechanics on our boat (he was a former diesel mechanic - how lucky as we??) By noon we had reached Lock Thorah. It had a high rating from the guides and it meant that we would only have one lock before heading across the lake the next day.
We spent a leisurely afternoon at the bottom of the lock. Gigi went off the leash for the first time in an unsecured area and she behaved wonderfully. While on a leash she tugs to go after the squirrels and anything else that interests her. But given the opportunity today, she was cautious and did not get into any mischief.
The lockmaster and his assistant talked to us at length about their jobs. These are not full time jobs and they must compete for winter work at Parks Canada to reach the equivalent of an annual salary. They are required to maintain their lock area, grounds, etc., but mechanical issues with the locks themselves are handled by others.
Early that evening, two smaller boats tied up behind us and set up tents on land. Two younger couples from Nova Scotia. Gigi made friends and soon one of the couples came over to introduce themselves. We were able to give them some potable water.
Tuesday, July 19
We were at the next lock at 8:30 am (time that locks open up), got through, went across Lake Simcoe and docked at Port of Orillia around noon. Who should be there but Gemini. We rushed to get Gigi to her grooming appointment and had a delightful lunch nearby upon the recommendation of the groomer. The owner noticed us looking at the black and white photos on the wall and he asked, "would you like a tour?". His mother-in-law travels and is quite a good photographer. She had supplied the photographs of places she had travelled.
That afternoon we had drinks with Gemini and traded stories past, present, & future.
On our early evening walk at the marina, we came upon a man who was looking up at the sky, would blow a whistle periodically, and then say something in a coxing voice. Nothing happened. And so he would go through the routine again. Frankly about the 10th time we began to wonder. And so did a few others. At that defining moment a bird swooped down and landed on his gloved arm. It was a harris hawk. This man owned and trained birds to get rid of gulls in certain areas, eg farms, waterfronts, anywhere gulls are a nuisance. Companies hire him and his birds. Never knew such a service existed. The bird was gentle enough and allowed us to stroked his belly. The gloves are necessary only when the birds land and grab the arm with their talons. Otherwise they sit gently enough on the arm.
Wednesday, July 20
There are no cars to be rented in Orillia. Not exactly what we expected. How can there be no cars for rent in Orillia in the middle of the week?? Only two hours from my Mom and no way to get there. Will try again tomorrow.
Laundry was the order of business this morning. Cost was $3.75 for a load to wash and about $2 per load to dry. I had three loads. This is a far cry from US marinas that charge anywhere from $1-$2 per load to wash and $1 to dry.
In between loads we discovered a bakery and deli, and a sidewalk trailer stand by the name of "Rib City BBQ". They have been in business since the 1970's and copywrited the name. They found out about Rib City in the US and very softly complained that they had the name first. We suggested that they sue so they could retire. And pointed out that if the roles were reversed the US company would not give them a break. They seemed too gentle to make an issue of it.
