Wawa to Rossport, Ontario - July 20-27

July 20

We left Wawa about 8 am and reach Michipoceten Island six hours later.  We were catching solid one meter waves on the port bow side for most of that time.  It would have been on the beam but Rusty adjusted the heading for a more comfortable ride, which then meant we had to make another correction or we were headed for the middle of Superior.   Luckily for us the winds were negligible and the waves were not producing any white caps.  The only casualty was our weather monitor.  It fell inside the cabin and bit the dust.  Fortunately we had a spare and it is up and running.

Along the way the chartplotter’s alarm sounded.  There was not enough voltage coming in.  We surmised it had to do with a connection as our batteries were indicating they were charged.  But before we surmised, we turned it off and navigated with the Navionics program on our Ipad.

Michipoceten’s Quebec Harbor is about 2.5 miles long and ½ mile wide.  We anchored near the old fishing village ruins.  There is a salt lick on land for caribou and sure enough the caribou came out.  We went ashore and within ten minutes we had seen what there was to see.  However our little girl was so excited with all the new smells that it took her forever to do her business.

There were at least two other boats anchored in the harbor both who came over to say hello.  A group of up to 20 boaters have made this harbor their summer home in the past but the numbers have been reduced over time.  There is great fishing and kayaking possibilities and for reprovisioning it is a six hour trip back to Wawa.  Water is not an issue as it is possible to take it from Lake Superior in a pinch.  There are a couple of outhouses on shore complete with TP.  With careful management boaters are able to stay out 2-3 weeks at a time.

We had a delicious grilled trout for dinner.  Rusty caught it yesterday evening on a fishing expedition with Travis Buck.

There is no cellular or wifi

July 21

It was overcast the entire day.  Rusty figured out that the connection between the power cable and chartplotter was the culprit.  It had been replaced once before by Garmin due to poor design.  Guess they didn’t go far enough to fix the problem.  So the short term fix is to angle the chartplotter in a more horizontal position.

Ed and Judy Crook from Crooked Arc came over for a dinner of ribs and chicken, parsley and buttered baby red potatoes, fresh peas, salad and fresh strawberries and honey.

July 22

We woke up to winds blowing and rain falling.  In between squall lines we let out another 40 ft. of chain.  Winds reached 30 MPH.  with 2.4 inches of rain total. 

What else could we do but eat. Peameal bacon and eggs, toast and coffee for breakfast.  Homemade split pea soup and grilled cheddar cheese sandwich for lunch.  Pork chops, fried potatoes and peas and salad for dinner.  (As I read this I am aware this is not the most healthy of diets but it sure does taste good)

We watched the movie, The Quartet, in the evening and were so touched by the acting, the story and the music.

July 23

We left Michipicoten at 10:30 am and reached Old Dave’s Harbor at Otter Island about 4:30 pm.  We looked at Otter Cove but it did not feel right to us.  It was deep and not very well sheltered for the north winds we were getting. 

Old Dave’s Harbor has a tight entrance and not much room to anchor so we tied a stern line to the old dock.  There is an assistant lightkeeper’s house next to the dock that is open to visitors.  Rusty took Gigi ashore and said there is a trail that looks like it came from Hansel and Gretel.  We will explore tomorrow.

Rusty decided it was time to refill the water tanks (from the Lake) because he did not want to have to open the spare tank lines (located behind our bed and necessitating some acrobatics).  He added a cup of bleach.  NO MORE ON THIS EXCEPT TO SAY THE COFFEE TASTES FUNNY.

It was a good night’s rest although it was 41 the following morning.

No cell or wifi

July 24

What an absolutely beautiful walk along the Hansel and Gretel trail.  It led to the lighthouse and the lighthouse keeper’s cottage.  There are two helicopter pads to transport the park wardens in and out. 

Back at the dock we explored the two story assistant lightkeeper’s cottage.  There were instructions to please leave the place better than you found it.  I wish we could say we improved something.  There was a guest book where visitors can leave comments.  Kayakers seem to be popular visitors judging from the comments.  There was no garbage left in the house or on the grounds.  A few mattresses were scattered throughout the bedrooms.  The square tiles were popping off the floor.  All in all, pretty dismal but in a heavy blow, it would be a place of refuge for kayakers.

Our run today was to Morrison’s Cove where wild orchids can be found.  We got through the skinny entrance but did not like the south wind blowing through.  It was suppose to be a west wind so not sure what that was all about.  We looked at the other end but did not like the narrow entrance and the waves, etc. etc. 

We ended up anchored in White River, all alone again.  Tomorrow we will take the dinghy up to the falls and see if we can get up to the suspension bridge.  That should be a thrill!

Two bars Rogers cellular but not enough to transmit or receive.

July 25

It was a 2.5 mile dinghy ride up the river to the rapids.  The hilly sides of the river were cloaked in a thick array of evergreen trees.  Quite pretty.  We found the spur trail to the Coastland Hiking Trail which brought us to the suspension bridge.  It was a sturdy all steel construction that hardly moved at all.  We could see the inland lake where until 1960 lumber would be sent down the rapids and out to the mouth of the White River where it was assembled into log booms and towed to Sault Ste Marie by Abitibi Lumbering Company. 

We signed the guest book located in a metal box and read that many others have enjoyed the experience including a couple from France just a few days prior. 

The spur trail was not as well maintained as the main one and at one point there was a 100 foot near vertical climb which is one thing going up but not the reverse.  Rusty found a branch he fashioned into a walking stick and we were good to go.  Gigi was a natural on the trails. 

Rusty fished in the afternoon.  We saw two fishermen from Marathon, a tour expedition type boat, and a mega trawler all staying for a few hours.  We were alone again for the evening.  Rusty made an anchor trip line for those moments when we are likely to anchor and hook a log or something similar.

Tomorrow it will be seven days without news, phone or cell.  

July 26

We thought we would have enough time to get to Marathon.  We didn’t.   The rains with accompanying thunderstorms appeared on the radar and starting closing in, so we headed for an anchorage at Pulpwood Harbor.  I don’t think we travelled more than 45 minutes. 

Once the weather cleared we dinghied over to Hattie’s Cove where there is a provincial park camping/trailer site.  They have an Artist in the Park program and we saw some neat wooden puzzle type art.  The campgrounds are beautiful.

There was 3 bars Roger but it was not strong enough to send or receive.

July 27

We decided to try to get as far as the Slate Islands.  There was 40% chance of showers but the winds were only to peak at 10-15 MPH so it seemed reasonable.  As we exited Pulpwood Harbor, Rusty took ill and for the next eight hours he took naps and ate alka seltzer tablets.  We did have some rain and the waves and winds were manageable.  When we got to the Islands Rusty preferred we tie up instead of anchor and so we went on to Rossport.  Now it is 6 pm, Rusty is fixing himself a toddy.  I guess the stuffed pork chop is all mine tonight.  Poor guy.  He thinks it is the start of a cold.  I think it is the chlorine bleached water he drank straight from the faucet last night.  Did I mention that whenever we take a shower the entire boat smells of bleach?  Nose wiggling clean.

Rossport is a village with one B&B, two inns, one restaurant, two artist studios, one gift shop, a kayak outfitter, one church, one marina/firestation, and a caboose museum.    There is unsecured wifi.  The marina has 15 amp power and water and two restrooms. 

We hope to get to Nipigon tomorrow.  Laundry calls and so do the echos from an almost empty refrigerator.

 

Sinclair to Wawa, Ontario - July 15-19

We reached Sinclair by one pm and instantly were blown away by its beauty.  We are surrounded on three sides by cliffs and woods and on the fourth side is a series of rock islands colored in shades of greys, whites, purples, oranges, and yellows.

We put out 100 ft. of chain along with the snubber after making sure the anchor was set.  The clouds have gotten a little thicker and darker but still there are patches of dark blue sky.  No weather alerts and the winds are as predicted (10-15 mph) so we should be ok. 

A quick lunch of homemade tomato soup and toasted cheddar cheese sandwich followed and it was followed with a nap for Rusty and Gigi.  I should nap too. Maybe when I am on Medicare I will feel it is ok.

Although the wind was very light overnight we kept getting hit on the beam by faint swells.  Both of us finally got to sleep when about 1 am the anchor alarm went off.  It was a false alarm.  It was well over 3 hours before we could fall asleep again. 

No cellular or wifi.

July 16 – we went ashore in the morning to hike to the Ojibwe pictographs but dogs were not allowed on the trail so we dinghied around the corner and looked at them by water.  The pictographs were faded and really required the help of a park ranger to decipher.

Our run today was supposed to be to Indian Harbor, only three hours.  All was calm when fairly quickly a line of disturbance appeared on the water, just as the clouds moved away from us.  The winds picked up and the water turned from near glass to ripples and then small waves and white caps.  We decided to head for a closer anchorage and just as we pulled in to Garantua Harbor the winds subsided. 

We had a tasty trout dinner thanks to Rusty’s fishing efforts.  Stew was cooking in the crockpot all day so dinner is made for tomorrow night as well. 

No cellular or wifi

July 17 - It was 37 degrees this morning.  I woke up to the generator running and the heat turned on.  My man!

Environmental Canada had technical difficulties with their VHF weather broadcast this morning.  Fortunately we are writing down the extended weather reports so we knew that we were headed for calm skies for the next few days.  There were no clouds in the skies and the wind was negligible. 

We could have reach Wawa but decided to spend one more night at anchorage.  Brule Harbor is written up as the prettiest anchorage between Sault Ste Marie and Wawa, with warnings that swinging room was tight so perhaps a stern anchor would be necessary.  The book (Bonnie Dahl’s Superior Way) was right on the money.   

By 3:30 we had two anchors out and Rusty and Gigi were exploring in the dinghy while I read outside on the aft deck in the prettiest anchorage so far.   

We are surrounded by Christmas trees standing tall on the rocky and hilly shore.  It feels like they have extended their arms in a wide circle and we are in the middle.

No cellular or wifi

July 18 – 19 The run to Buck’s Marina in Wawa, Ontario was only 1.5 hours.  Brad Buck, the owner invited us to join him, his wife and son to a local diner for lunch.  They couldn’t have been kinder.  Later that day Doris took me grocery shopping.  The town is about 5 miles away; the call on demand bus operates only during the week and finishes by 3 pm on Friday, so the offer of a lift there and back was much appreciated.

We will stay two nights to get ready for the next leg culminating in either Marathon or Rossport.  Our batteries are topped up again, water tanks are full, other tank is empty, and clothes will be laundered today.

There was unsecured wifi here but I was knocked off so needed to use the Rogers stick.  Excellent signal.

July 11 - 15 Sault Ste Marie to Mamainse, Ontario

July 11 – Gigi went for her grooming appointment in the morning .  Her top knot got slaughtered.  I didn’t see it until we got back to the boat.  It is a mess.  Different lengths.  Part of it was cut off.  The worst job ever in 4.5 years.  Methinks someone started to cut it off and then tried to disguise it when she realized the top knot should stay.  The good thing is that Gigi’s hair will grow back.

We decided to stay in the Soo another night.  By the time we were finishing with the grooming, the sky was dark and winds had picked up although the weather reports did not indicate a problem.   So we went shopping and bought new pots and pans and cutlery and bins and thermal wear for those cold nights on Lake Superior.

July 12 – We were a little apprehensive about starting the trek into Lake Superior.  We had received a number of cautions about the Lady and her tantrums.  Both of us did not sleep well and by 5 am got up and had coffee and breakfast. 

It was 9:45 when we exited the Canadian lock in the Soo and by 4:30 we were tied up at the government dock in Corbeil Point near the entrance of Batchawana Bay.  The water was like glass most of the way.  Winds were light or non-existent.  We crossed in and out of US waters and were able to pick up AT&T for a few hours.

The government dock was replaced about two years ago and it is wide and sturdy.  Depths were 13’ on the outer T.   We met a few families who were fishing on the dock and got a warm welcome.  Some of the kids were even swimming.  BRRR.   The community has about 100 residents and the closest place to get groceries is 40 miles away. 

Rusty tried his hand at fishing, having purchased a license in Sault Ste Marie.  No one was catching. We had stuffed pork chops for dinner.

The view from the boat is beautiful.  If we can keep out of weather trouble and based on our first day, we are in for a real treat.   (Rogers works well here)

July 13 – 20 MPH winds were coming from the west which means beam seas.  That and a bank of fog which crept in during the morning helped make the decision to stay put.  Things started to get better late afternoon.  Kids came out to play and swim. 

At one point a pack of dogs approached the boat just as we were going to take Gigi for a walk.  They expressed interest in our little girl.  One of the boys asked if she was in heat, and if not, the pack would be ok.   The dogs looked like Rottweiler Pit Bull mixes.  We stayed on board. 

July 14 – We rechecked the weather reports online as well as those broadcast by Environmental Canada on VHF in the morning.  Everything looked good except for a small rain system coming through.  By 9 am it was clearing and we were off.  The swells were about 2-3 feet but gentle.  After an hour we changed course and the water was calmer so all in all it was a pleasant cruise.

We only had a 2.5 hr trip today.  Mamainse Harbor has a government dock leased to fishermen and their tugs.  One happened to be away for a few days and we were able to stay for a donation.  The gentlemen in charge was born in 1930 (that makes him 84) and he looks as fit as a fiddle. His dog is named Cooper (same as our boat) and it could not leave Gigi alone.  Poor girl.

Rusty bought some whitefish from the fish packing company onsite.  It was delicious.  We walked and read and wished we had continued further today.  At the rate we are going it will take us more than a month to get around Superior.  Both of us agreed we would not take chances with the weather though. There were predictions of winds building up in the afternoon so we did make the right decision based on the information available, even if the predictions did not pan out.

Another chilly night coming up. Grateful for the extra blanket we bought a few days ago.  We tucked Gigi in her Minnie Mouse blanket at night and she did not budge until the morning.

July 15 – all looks good for a run to Sinclair.  We were able to pick up unsecured wifi with our Alfa Network antennae.  No cellular here.

Little Current to Sault Ste Marie, Ontario - July 1 -10

July 1 - We did not go as far as we had hoped.  The wind kicked up and we tucked into Bedford Harbor for the night.  We had the most amazing rhubarb pie for dessert, purchased earlier that day at a church bake sale.

July 2 - Less than three hours brought us to the famous Benjamin Islands.  The anchorage was ok but not as protected as we would have liked with the 30 MPH winds, and especially as the winds shifted 180 degrees during the night.  And we shifted the same number of degrees.  But before that happened we were able to dinghy to shore with Gigi.  She loved running along the large smooth rock formations.  Rusty pulled out his new beard and hair trimming kit and let me trim his beard.  I think he was surprised.

July 3 - Upon the recommendation of a couple we met in the Benjamins, we moved over to Moiles Harbor.  It was quiet and for a while we were the only boat.  Again the winds shifted overnight and so did we.  These wind shifts were not predicted.  When we pulled up anchor the chain had caught on something.  Fortunately we were able to wiggle it loose.   Later we heard there were deadheads at the bottom.

July 4 - As we left Moiles Harbor, the winds and waves started to become uncomfortable and so we ducked into Long Point Cove.  It was beautiful.  We sounded in the dinghy with a string and lead weight and found we could anchor in the shallows.  We were invited over to Ingabor for drinks and within 1.5 hr we were convinced that we could do the Canadian north shore of Lake Superior.  So now we are going around the perimeter.

July 5 - A spur of the moment decision early that morning found us scrambling to get the boat moving again.  We had planned to stay another day at Long Point Cove but it seemed there was a break in the weather.  Off we went.  The water was like glass until about noon and then the ripples started, and then the tiny swells gently rocked us.   The sky turned dark and the winds became stronger.  We made it to Richard's Landing on St. Joseph's Island just in time.  The marina staff were superb.  Richard's Landing is a place where the residents take pride in their homes.

July 6-7 - It was only about 30 miles to Sault Ste Marie and most of it was nerve wracking.  We were in the shipping channels with huge freighters.  The current was against us by 2-3 mph.  At one point we moved outside the channel to let a freighter pass by.  That cost us the time we needed to get to the George Kemp marina before the rain started to fall.  Again the marina staff were wonderful.  The facilities were great but the surroundings were in the midst of an economic downturn.  No jobs.   We stayed two days, did the laundry and a few other chores, before heading across the river to Ontario's Sault Ste Marie. It was great to be able to use our phones freely.

July 8-10 - The reason we are in the Soo is to have Gigi groomed and the groomer cannot take her until the llth. It has been cold especially in the evenings.  We bought an extra blanket at Walmart.  Rusty did the oil changes.  I did a museum visit and found out about the two men who shaped the city. Our larders are full again.  We both went for a long walk to the island today.  Nice.

Barrie to Little Current - June 13 to July 1

We had not travelled far from Barrie, as in only a few miles, when we noticed something was amiss.  Rusty went to the engine room leaving me on the flybridge with the command, “don’t get too close to shore”.  The short of it:  the portside alternator belt was not feeding the dead inverter and so it needed to be removed.  That would require removing the starboard alternator belt.  As we were bobbing around in the bay without power, that was not a solution so Rusty cut the portside belt instead. We were soon on our way and arrived in Orillia in time to pick up some pastries for dessert.

The next day at 8 am Gene, owner of Marine Electric Technologies, arrived to replace the batteries and inverter system.  When we told him about the alternator, he took it to an electric place to have it checked only to find out the place is not open on Saturday.   (The alternator seems to be working).  The job carried into Sunday as expected.  Overnight we had power to the fridge as well as the lights, but not to the water pressure pump.    Rusty brought out the gallon water bottle we purchased last year.  It had been sitting in a cupboard with two moth balls.  And that is what the water tasted of.  We had dinner out and then went to bed early to try and forget our water problem.

Early Sunday morning, we received a call from my brother.  They were bringing lunch (it turned out to be a feast).  What a lifesaver that was!  There was no way to prepare anything on the boat that morning.  In fact the repairs were not completed until about 1:30.  Fortunately there was a nice park with picnic table at the marina and we were able to have an enjoyable visit with Henry, Kathy and their son Scott. 

Monday, June 16, we did the laundry in the morning ($6.25 per load and dryers were $.25 per three minutes) some last minute shopping,  and then headed out.  On the way we stopped at Lauderdale Marina to pump out.  The sign said $35.  My eyes popped and I said calmly, Wow, we paid $10 last time (true).  The young lady said, would you pay $20? A deal was struck.  Then when it came time to pay, she said it was $10. 

That night we stopped at the top of Lock 43, Swift Rapids, remote, remote, remote. Because of the reduced working hours at the locks, we were unable to lock through before 10 am the next day.  The clouds began to get darker and darker and then the rain began to fall.  We pulled up to the town dock at Severn Falls and waited out the storm.  The sole store and restaurant was closed but the owner did come by and offer us the use of the power which enabled us to turn on the heater.  That night we stopped the Big Chute, the railway lock, which we transited the following morning.   To our surprise, Alice and Barry Jones were docked there too.  We had met them in Campbellford, Ontario three years ago when we did the Great Loop.

Wednesday, June 18, was a productive day.  We completed the Trent Seven Waterway (Big Chute Lock 44, Port Seven Lock 45), headed to Midland to shop for a new alternator belt and baked goods at the Georgian Bakery (turns out it was Dutch owned:  bags of black licorice which I resisted; orange flags all over the store in celebration of the recent soccer win, raisin buns, etc. etc.), and then over to the Beausoleil Island dock.

At least once every day from then until now I either said or thought, we have it so good.  The scenery is spectacular.  It is peaceful.  The only sounds are birds and the lapping of water as it strokes the hull of the boat.  The weather has been cool but pleasant often with a light breeze blowing through the cabin. Many times we have been the only boat at a dock or anchorage.

Our one day stay at Beausoleil turned into four wonderful days.   Rusty busied himself with a bridle for the dinghy and in the process has become good at splicing.  I started the annual job of touching up the teak and got as far as doing the windows and eyebrow.   There was a wonderful park tour one afternoon, focused on native plants and their healing properties.   By Friday most of the docks were full of Canadian weekenders and one couple kindly delivered some gasoline for our dinghy engine.  With that we were able to take the dinghy into Honey Harbor on Saturday.  The highlight was discovering a small shop with excellent meats and prepared items.  We later feasted on a really good steak and stuffed Portobello mushrooms.

Sunday, June 22^nd, we left Beausoleil, stopping at the famous Henry’s Fish House for lunch for some rather sad pickerel, and then anchored in beautiful Echo Bay where we ate stuffed cabbage rolls purchased at Sweet Paradise in Hamilton, Ontario.  Yummy!

We have noticed a slight drip at the steering column on the upper helm.  We think it needs a new o-ring but that involves pulling off the wheel with a special wheel puller which we do not have.  The short of it: we had it checked at Sound Boat Works in Parry Sound, Ontario, and it will be ok until we can get the proper seal kit.  Later that day (Monday), we anchored in Snug Harbor and spent two nights while the rain poured and poured.  Tuesday was a day for my homemade split pea soup.

Wednesday, June 25 we travelled to Pointe au Baril where there is a town dock, a combined Home Hardware and grocery store, a community center, a fish and chips stand, a convenience/gas stop with homemade bread, and a small grocer that was starting to stock up for the summer cottage trade.   We were allowed to spend the night on the town dock as they were not busy.   Home Hardware had good quality items, food and non-food, and we took the opportunity to restock for what we thought would be five days at anchor.

Thursday, June 26 we headed for Britt on the Byng Inlet, home of the famous Britt Inn Restaurant.  Unfortunately the restaurant/inn has been sold and so we continued on our way to the Free Drinks Passage where we are now anchored.  It is so beautiful we decided to stay another night.  Tomorrow (Sat) we might go to the Bustards or get closer to Kilarney.  There is some weather coming in a few days so we want to be settled in somewhere protected.

Friday and Saturday nights found us at a secluded anchorage at Free Drinks Passage.  So peaceful.  Then onto Kilarney but we ended up stopping for an hour at the LCBO dock, getting Herberts Fish and Chips, some bread and tarts at Gateway, and then on to our anchorage at (another) Snug Harbor.  We then gave the boat a thorough cleaning.  On the way from Free Drinks Passage we were swarmed with baby flies, hundreds and hundreds of baby flies.  It was so bad that I hosed down the boat for a full thirty minutes while we were underway.  Everytime we opened a door, they would swoop in.  It took quite some time that afternoon to get rid of them all.

On Sunday we reached Kilarney.  Yesterday Last Dance pulled up and we enjoyed sharing travelling stories over drinks. Today is Canada Day and there is a small town fair.     A couple of pies are in the fridge and freezer.  The opening day of the Cruisers Net took place this morning and Rusty called in our position.  What a great service to the cruising community.  Thanks Roy Eaton!