As we looked at the closed door from inside the boat and saw the outside, it hit us that there were two tiny but long cracks in one of the strips of wood. How in the world could this have happened? Never mind. It didn't faze us in the least. We have our trusty wood epoxy filler and will make it tight again.
March 10, 2011
Both doors have been refinished and are back on the boat. The port door needed to be reglued with a 2 part epoxy. Looks very good now. We ended up getting adhesive Gold Series brush weatherstrip from UltraFab.
We decided to hold off with the windows (new channels and glass) until we are on our trip. In the meantime we are refinishing them together with the screens.
January 11,2011
Fourth coat of Cetol after a light sanding. Tomorrow we will do the 5th and we can remove the masking tape. I am anxious about this. The last lot of masking tape left a sticky mess on the fiberglass. Stripped the five screen windows and washed them down. The wood will need some cleaner/brightener.
Found a supplier for the flexible brush strip for the doors - Braun Brush in New York. They will get back to us tomorrow or Thursday if it is in stock. The starboard door is finished and needs to cure before we put it back in the track.
The window may be a challenge. They come out as one unit with the frame. First the bungs are removed and then the screws come out. The bungs were glued in and so it take some extra time to get it all out. The gaskets are not gaskets. They are window channels. Stanpro makes them and we have to order direct or through a distributor. The old window channels are bedded to the frame and to the fixed window. That has to be removed without breaking the glass. Once the new channels are installed, the glass is cleaned and put back with bedding material. Then somehow we have to lift the whole thing to the side of the boat and dry fit it, tape the opening, then apply caulking and attach it to the boat, somehow lining up the screw holes, all within 15 minutes. I think this is a real challenge.
January 8, 2011
Two of the fixed windows are finished, except now we think that one of them is a bit damp in the interior. We took off the starboard door and took it home to refinish. Stripping and then five coats on one side, turned over, and we are at three coats on the other side. We also did the door frames with five coats and have put up plastic sheeting to keep out the nasties. It takes two weeks for the Cetol to cure completely. It's a long time to be without a door.
The transom and port toe and cap rails are on the 2nd coat of Cetol. I finally decided to put up tape on the stainless and the hull/deck area. Up to now it's been fairly easy to paint without taping but there are just too many areas on the rails that would slow me down. It takes approximately two hours to put on one coat of Cetol. It would take a least another hour if there was no tape.
Oh the windows - the quote to reseat the window and put in new channels is approximately $2000. What an incentive to try and figure out how to do it ourselves.
December 28
We have applied five coats of Cetol Natural Teak to the flybridge brightwork. The swim platform and transom steps have been stripped and Interlux Premium Teak Oil has been applied. It looks nice.
We are now starting on three of the fixed windows and the anchor board. We noticed that some of the seals are dry. The five sliding windows need new gaskets and that required taking out the teak plugs, unscrewing the frame, etc. etc. We have asked for a quote to repair the five sliding windows, reseat one of the fixed windows, and apply a product that seals the frame to another fixed window (need to get the name of the product as it will be useful for maintenance). The remaining fixed window is fine.
Sunday, December 5th
We have been on the boat each day working on the brightwork. Today we went after church. Rusty was determined to get some Cetol on the wood. We tried taping but the edges were just too irregular. Our routine was me cutting in and Rusty doing the broad strokes. It was amazing how much we were able to do. We had a wet cloth with some 216 solvent and that cleaned up any errors.
Wednesday, December lst
Tomorrow came and we did what we planned. The only thing that remains on the flybridge is the helm and the wood framed instrument box. We'll probably wait to do them. We think the helm wheel can be removed which will be so much easier but until we know we won't destroy something, the wheel is staying put.
Rusty checked the windlass today. It looks well maintained. The two TV's are going. They are as old as the hills and don't function well. Rusty, I'm sure, has his eye on some flat panel TV but I keep telling him TV's are low on the priority list. But you know guys and their gadgets...
November 30, 2010
This is about day five of our self-taught fix the brightwork school. We are focusing on the teak on the flybridge so that the canvas folks can install the enclosure. We thought it would take a week for us to strip the wood and apply a few coats of Cetol. We began to feel pressured and it started not being fun at all so we told the canvas folks we needed more time. They will start their job in 2011.
The brightwork (teak) is in horrible shape. All of it needs to be refinished. Rusty and I have developed a process that seems to be working for us. I apply the Dad's Wax & Paint Stripper. Rusty follows with a scrapper and container. When we've done a section, I follow Rusty with a pail of soapy water and scrub the wood with a brush. Rusty hoses it down. Then I apply some more chemicals, Rusty scraps, I scrub with a nylon brush or scrubby, Rusty rinses. Then we move to another section.
Today we applied some Teak Restorer to the areas that are grey. Marginal results. Maybe sanding will help. We brought home some of the teak doors and had them stripped in no time at all on our work bench.
Tomorrow we will do the baseboards on the flybridge, two more doors, and all the flybridge door frames.
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