Thunder Bay, Ontario to Duluth MN/Superior WI - August 8-19

August 8

We ended up staying an extra day in Thunder Bay.  A day to do laundry, changed water filters (they were still pretty clean), washed topside and deck.  And then a great dinner out at Silver Birch (bouillabaisse, duck meatloaf, and a decadent yet light white chocolate mousse.) 

August 9

We estimated how long it would take to get to Duluth and with a rainy day forecast on Tuesday, we decided to head for Wauswaugoning Harbor rather than an intermediary stop at Thompson Island.  It ended up being a calm 5.5 hour run.  I got excited as we approached the US border expecting AT&T to kick in.  No such luck. 

Wauswaugoning Harbor turned out to be a wonderful stop.  It was somewhat open to the southwest but winds were light.   We were the only boat.  There was a small gravel beach to land and take a short walk.

We could not report to US Customs and tried to get advice from the Coast Guard and they said to get closer to shore to see if we could pick up a signal.  We felt we made a good faith effort and will deal with Customs tomorrow.

August 10-11

The VHF weather reports indicated that there may be thunderstorms in the afternoon so we left the anchorage at 7 am and arrived in Grand Marais, MN shortly after 12 noon.  The water was like glass the entire way.  Fog cloaked us on our portside while our starboard side was clear.  AT&T’s signal became stronger and stronger as we approached Grand Marais.  Along the way we checked in with US Customs by telephone.

There was no dock space at the marina so we opted to tie up at the Forestry Dock rather than take a mooring ball.  It has turned out to be a good move although we put out every fender we have just in case there is any rocking.

Grand Marais is a touristy, artsy town with a food coop, a few good (reportedly) restaurants, a couple grocers, and the World’s Best Donuts (we are going to try them although the donuts in Campbellford, Ontario are hard to beat).

It started to rain Sunday evening.  Looks like Monday will be wet too so we will stay until Tuesday morning.

We arranged for our mail to be forwarded to a marina in Duluth UPS ground 1-5 days.  (HA…it ended up taking seven days.  UPS does not work on the weekend).

There is a great little fish deli shop next to the Angry Trout Restaurant.  We purchased some delicious pickled herring in a cream sauce and Johnson’s grocery store provided us with delicious smoked trout.

August 12

We left at 6:15 am and reached Silver Bay, MN at 1:30 pm.  Silver Bay Marina is very well maintained and looks new. The diesel was only $3.79 per gallon so we filled up.   We met boaters who cross Lake Superior at Silver Bay to cruise the Apostle Islands.  Something to think about for next time.

There is nothing in the area but a campground and a taconite processing plant. 

Rusty put the dinghy up on the swim platform as it looks like we will not be anchoring for a while.

August 13-19

Leaving at 8 am, we reached Barkers Marina in Superior, Wisconsin at 2:10 pm.  Superior and Duluth, MN are twin port cities, situated side by side at the western end of Lake Superior.  We had to cross a couple shipping lanes and sure enough there was one freighter that was moving faster than we were, requiring a little “get out of the way” maneuver.

We rented a car with Enterprise (only $18.05 per day) for five days and that enabled us to do some touring, shopping, laundry, and visiting.

Rusty’s cousin Lyn and John came up from Minneapolis to see us and the boat so we took them for a ride up the St. Louis River as far as Silver Springs Marina where we found Indonesian art and ice cream bars.   Dinner and breakfast the next morning rounded out a very pleasant visit.

We drove to Minneapolis for a short but thoroughly enjoyable time with Rusty’s brother-in-law Keith and nephew and niece, Scott and Beth.  They will be coming to Naples in December so the conversation will recommence then.

The short review of Duluth and Superior is “eh”.  We have never been here so we were curious.  It is the furthest point west on Lake Superior so that was something to strive for.  It was the closest point to Minneapolis on our route and that was important to see family.  But for a boater destination, it does not have enough to offer to justify going out of one’s way.  The marina closest to downtown Duluth has issues and the one we stayed at on Barkers Island is so removed that one needs a car. (See Active Captain for more info).

The landscape is overwhelmed with industrial buildings and roadways and overpasses.  The gardens at Enger Tower were an exception and one day we had a picnic lunch there.  A foodie highlight was to restock our freezer with meat from Superior Meats.  Good, old fashioned butcher.  We had a filet mignon last night and it was outstanding.  I don’t know why we bother with other cuts.

Gigi spent Monday at the Smooth the Pooch groomers and she looks magnificent again. 

The weather has been hit and miss lately.  We stayed an extra day (Tuesday) because of threats of thunderstorms.  The sole laundry washer at the marina is on the fritz so you know what I did today with the rental car.  Tomorrow looks good for a run to Cornucopia, WI and the start of the Apostle Islands.